Banff, Jasper, Yoho, and Kootenay National Parks, in the Canadian Rockies, are serviced with an extensive network of roads.

1 -Date unknown-- painting by Jack Lee McLean (1924- 2003), a highly skilled Canadian artist and shown here with permission.

The artist has captured a moment every traveler has experienced. Resting the horses and glassing back.

2 - 1973 -- young bald eagle. Wolves had killed a moose and a group of young eagles were feeding on what remained of the carcass. They had gorged themselves to the extent they could not fly. But were ready for a fight. I left them to their lunch.

3 -1983 -- top of Hardscrabble Pass. Leaving north boundary of Jasper National Park (JNP) and entering Willmore Wilderness Park. An easy route but this short stretch of bare rock,at the summit, makes it advisable to lead the ponies on foot.

4 -1984 -- approaching Hardscrabble Pass en route to Jasper National Park from the Willmore side.

5 -1986 -- Anticline Mountain (my name). Top end of the Berland River, just before dropping down, via Jack- Knife Pass, into the Sulphur River Valley. It is hard to visualize or imagine the monstrous forces of pressure which resulted in such a folding process, and without cracking the strata.

These strata were formerly seabed and, will likely contain fossils. Each individual stratum was laid down over many thousands of years and each separation represents a slow but likely catastrophic climatic change.

The folding was not sudden but took place later and over eons of time. Gigantic pressure was applied continuously. A collision, in slow minute increments, of tectonic plates.

Very common in the Rockies. Sometimes in a reverse shape – then termed syncline.

6 -1986 -- top end of the Berland River. Accessing Jack-Knife Pass down into the Sulphur River Valley.

A steep but safe trail.

7 -1986 -- looking west over the Ya Ha Tinda Ranch, located on the upper Red Deer River valley. (See Stories - short.)

8 -1989 -- a pair of grizzly tracks, in late April. Monument Mountain above Canary Creek in the Ram River country.

Did not see the bears but assume they either saw me or caught my scent, probably the latter as the wind was upslope, and cleared out minutes ahead as tracks were fresh.

9 -1990 -- upper end of Whitehorse Creek, above Cadomin. (See Stories - short.)

10 -- 1990 -- Fiddle Pass

Top end of Whitehorse Creek.

Leads into Jasper National Park.

Good trail and a fine but longish return day ride.

Can continue into Jasper Park. Trail ends at Miette Hot Springs (JNP).

Some folks park a vehicle and trailer there for return to the Whitehorse facility.

11 -1990 -- Fiddle Pass, above Whitehorse Creek, after an early fall snowstorm.

12 -1990 -- packing into Blue Creek, Jasper National Park, from the Rock Lake staging area, Willmore Wilderness Park.

13 -1990 -- about to enter Rocky Pass Canyon en route to the Medicine Tent River country, Jasper National Park.

14 -1990 -- en route to the Medicine Tent River country in Jasper National Park, but still in Alberta.

We accessed that country from below the Cardinal Divide, south of Cadomin.

15 -1990 -- passing through the heart of Rocky Pass canyon. The trail is steep and narrow in part but quite safe.

The sharp drop-off may worry novices.

16 -1990 -- near the top end of the Rocky Pass canyon en route to our outfits parked at the Cardinal Divide, then home.

A Good Trip, Thanks Dennis.

17 -1990 -- approaching two small lakes, jewels in the wilderness. Appear to constitute the headwaters of the Medicine Tent River, Jasper National Park.

We camped nearby.

18 -1990 – a Jasper National Park warden’s cabin near Cairn Pass, between the Brazeau and the Medicine Tent Rivers.

Not a bad view to have from your front door.

19 -1991 -- looking down into Canary Creek from the start of the “burn”.

A good trail, behind me, leads over to the Ram River.

20 -1991 -- glassing from a grassy slope on a sunny day: above the Hummingbird en route to the Ram river.

As close to heaven as you (I) will get.

Banff National Park in the background.

21 -1991 -- looking down into the upper Ram River just before descending into the valley. The “ribboned” appearance is a common feature of the larger mountain rivers.

During high water, small secondary channels are often created and older channels abandoned or reduced in flow.

22 -1991 -- the “burn”. A nice trail from Canary Creek to the Ram River passes through this burned area.

Fire probably occurred near 75-100 years ago and must have been a hot one.

Takes a long time to re-vegetate in that high country due to severe climate.

23 -1992 -- the next three black and white photographs were taken by son David with a better camera than my point and shooter.

His black and whites have captured, better than color, the ambience, as a friend said, of the high country: the vastness, the suggested solitude and mystery.

This image also displays the type of vegetation, clumps of dwarfed Alpine fir, which dot the landscape as you move higher towards treeless tundra.

24 -- 1992 -- into the tundra.

Moving off a short distance to the south of the “burn” trail, between Canary Creek and the Ram River.

25 -- 1992 -- same view but more distant.

26 -1992 -- top of Moon Creek, between Carson Creek and the Berland River, in the Willmore Wilderness Park.

A tough and rocky trail. I’ve been told its called Called-Broken Ass Pass, and can believe it.

Not all high country trails are easy on horses.

27 -1993 -- Canyon and falls on the Ram River a mile or so up from my camp on the Hummingbird.

Tried fishing this day. No luck.

That's why it's called “fishin”, and not “catchin”.

28 -1994 –moving down from the peak of Monument Mountain, above Canary Creek to No Name Creek (my name).

Some bush-whacking necessary when you hit the timber.

At the bottom, three good trails: one back to the Hummingbird, and two trails to the Ram River, which hit that river in different spots.

29 -1995 -- Grizzly Flats. (See Stories - short)

Elk in the distance.

They don't move far from timberline in that country.

Fear of bears and wolves I suspect.

30 -1996 -- en route to Grizzly Flats. (See Stories - short.)The high country tends to green up late, but quickly. By August the vegetation has cured; browns, reds, and yellows.

Fresh bear diggings were common but in all the trips I took onto that plateau, never did see a bear. Assumed they saw or got my scent first.

A rider is pretty exposed.

31 – View from the southeast end of Grizzly Flats.

Ram River moves off to the right and below that slab faced mountain.

Upper end of Ranger Creek straight ahead.

Trail to Lost Guide Lake and the Clearwater River drainage takes off from the upper end of the Ranger.

32 -1996 -- en route to Grizzly Flats. Easily accessed from the upper end of Canary Creek.

Grizzly Flats can also be accessed from the Ram River side by bush-whacking up through timber.

Tougher.

33 -1996 -- photo illustrating extent of this high tundra plateau, named Grizzly Flats. (See Stories - short.)

Difficult to see in the photo but Trapper is hobbled to be sure there was no “adios partner, see you back in camp”.

34 -1996 -- map of trails in the Canary Creek, Ram River country.

Shows trails and riding times from the Hummingbird Creek campsite area.

Drew it up for some friends.

35 -1996 – map #2, made up for friends, showing trails into the lower Ram River country, accessible from the Hummingbird Creek camp area.

Many visitors camp along this small tributary of the Ram River.

Easily accessible by a gravel road off the main trunk road.

36 -1996 -- returning to camp on a snowy fall day via a rocky trail between Scalp Creek in the Red Deer River drainage and Forbidden Creek in the Clearwater River drainage.

37 -1996 – old Dominion Forest Service patrol cabin (circa 1920s) at the upper end of the Ram River.

(See Stories - long -- Tracking a grizzly bear).

I understand the cabin has subsequently been restored and classified as a historic site.

38 -1996 -- Pleasant Valley, well named, in the Ram River country.

Runs to the west from the top end of Canary Creek over to the top end of Hummingbird Creek.

Nice circular ride back to camp on Hummingbird Creek.

39 -1996 -- looking north on a high tundra ridge in vicinity of Sheep Mountain (some call it the Hat), north and above the Red Deer.

Between the Bighorn and Scalp creeks.

40 -1996 -- above timberline high in the Dog Rib Creek basin, just south of the Sheep Cliffs, above the Red Deer River. A south viewing photo. This is a nice area. Easily reached from the Sheep Cliffs.

Need to cross face of a fairly steep slope but good safe trail if you are okay with heights. (Mtn photos 47 and 55). There is a less challenging trail straight up from the Bighorn campsite to the Ribbon Flats, then hang a right and later a left into the high country. Good trail. Longer.

41 -1996 - well down into Hidden Falls Creek valley. Interesting rock formations on the far side.

Sheep trails are faintly visible in the scree slopes.

Sheep filter down between these palisade like structures, and range throughout the area.

42 -1996 -- a “perched” lake with the mysterious name, Prisoner of War. Origin of Hidden Falls Creek. The slope down to the lake is okay but rocky and steep.

The climb back not worth it.

Trapper, my horse, agreed.

A high waterfall lies within a very narrow canyon further down towards the Red Deer River ( Mtn photo 80).

43 -1996. -- the Blue Canadian Rockies. The bluish cast is caused by terpenes in the atmosphere. (See Stories - short.)

This view is looking west to Banff National Park.

44 -1996 -- these rams were on a salt lick just over from the Sheep Cliffs and on the upper slope of the Dog Rib drainage.

45 -1999 -- again, just over from the Sheep Cliffs. Blue sky, white clouds and brown tundra.

The salt lick and rams in photo 44 were immediately below the “V” and in the reddish area.

46 -1999 - upper end of Hidden Falls basin. The Sheep Cliffs and trail back to the Red Deer River is just over ridge to the left.

This patch of trees makes it a good spot to have lunch.

47 -1999 –Son David at upper end of Hidden Falls basin and heading left over the ridge to the Sheep Cliffs and back to camp on the Red Deer River.

The trail to the Dog Rib basin is faintly etched ahead and going off to the right along the high ridge on the horizon. Not all that pleasant on a windy fall day. But still comfortable if dressed well.

48 -1997 -- young rams at a salt lick within the canyon of Hidden Falls Creek,at the bottom, down near the falls.

(See Mtn. photo 80)

The cliff face to the left is crusted with salt from seepage.

49 -1996 -- looking west over the YaHaTinda ranch (See Stories - short.)

Banff National Park in the distance.

This Federal government horse ranch on the upper end of the Red Deer River occupies the valley bottom.

50 -- 1997 -- An interesting cloud effect. Looking west to Wardens Rock and Banff National Park.

Taken en route to the Sheep Cliffs.

51 -1996 -- the Sheep Cliffs. South and above the Red Deer River. I don't believe I ever made a trip into, or past this area without seeing sheep.

All were ewes, lambs and young rams.

Ideal spot as there is an abundance of grass and immediate sanctuary on the cliff face to the right.

They don't wander far into the meadow.

52 -1996 –ewe moving down the cliff face.

The Sheep Cliffs are part of the Hidden Falls Creek drainage.

53 -1996 -- two young lambs at edge of the Sheep Cliffs. (see Mtn photo 52)

It is not uncommon to see a golden eagle gliding past the cliff face.

I have been told eagles will knock young lambs off precarious ledges.

The lambs are killed by their long fall to the rocks below.

54 -1997 -- and old ewe watching over a group of playful lambs on the cliff face.

Not that clear. Requires a careful scan, but she is there minding the youngsters.

55 -1997 -- top end of the Sheep Cliff area. The trail over to the Dog Rib basin, to the left, starts on the ridge and can be seen traversing the high ridge face, center of photo (see Mtn photo 47).

56 -1997 -- as you break out of the timber, this is your first view of the tundra.

Almost always preceded by small patches of stunted, and often red belted in this case, Alpine fir shown here.

Referred to by botanists as "krummholz"

The climate is too severe for tree growth beyond here.

57 -1997-- between Canary Creek and the Ram River. Do not recall if snow is remnant from previous winter or a heavy late spring event. At any rate, patchy, and did not present major problems.

Not uncommon in the mountains to wake up on a June morning and see them completely white.

58 -1997 -- above timberline between the Big Horn and Scalp Creek. Still in the Red Deer River drainage. Photo looking north. Clearwater River drainage other side of high ridge in the distance.

In all the years I rode in this high tundra country, rarely saw game except down along the edge of timberline. Could have been wrong time of day, but suspect prey animals would feel too exposed.

Did see a couple of young rams crossing at a trot. They did not stop.

This is a great plateau to observe flowering plants in June/July.

The growing season is short and plants are rarely higher than 5-6 inches. A lot of heathers. Brilliant colors. Well worth a visit.

59 -- 1998 -- Hey What's that?

Your horse will likely pick up distant movement before you do.

60 -1998 -- looking west on the YaHaTinda Ranch, towards Banff National Park. A unique vegetation landscape. (See Stories – shortHYPERLINK "1998%20Rob%20on%20Appy%20in%20Red%20Deer%20valley.jpg" –Upper Red Deer River).

61 -2000 -- a baby- sitting granny gathering up and moving a group of young elk calves away from me, as I approached.

I had just emerged from a nearby draw along the Red Deer River.

62 -2000 -- a group of cow elk foraging on the YaHaTinda Ranch.

Looking towards the Eagle Lake gap, east of the ranch.

63 - 2001 -Eagle Lake. Another popular ride from the Big Horn campsite on the YaHaTinda Ranch. Off and east of the ranch.

Headwaters of Eagle Creek, a small waterway which flows into the Red Deer River.

64 -2001 -- emerging from Rocky Pass, in the Willmore Wilderness Area (See Stories-short), en route to the Sulphur River.

My last pack trip with a great group of friends.

65 -2001 -- Sunset Meadows in Willmore Wilderness Park. Used extensively by horse travelers . One of the most ideal sites you could find. Good access to wood, water, and a sheltered campsite. Here horses are hobbled, belled and grazing for the night.

The horses forage above camp, so if they decide to head home in the early morn, and it can happen, they will have to pass by the camp.

Bells will alert everyone.

Then its underwear, rubber boots, halters and flashlights.

66 -2002 --In the fall, at timberline between Big Horn Creek and Scalp Creek. Well north on that ridge.

A sheltered lunch stop among dwarf clumps of Alpine fir.

67 -- 2002 -- late September in the Big Horn Creek campsite. Heavy fall snowstorm. Was tough getting out.

White knuckle all the way.

68 -2004-- the Red Deer River at low water. A fair-sized mountain stream. First crossing for Wyatt, my new pony from Saskatchewan. Did great.

May not have ever crossed anything before wider than a water-filled ditch.

Most horses don’t seem to fear deep water, if they are introduced to it with a buddy.

And one crossing is all it takes.

69 -2004 -- returning to camp. Daughter Heather took this. We are about 3 miles from our campsite on the Big Horn Creek, YaHa Tinda Ranch.

70 -2005 – over-wintering elk grazing at east end of the YaHa Tinda Ranch. This is in April. Grass is about gone. Big problem for the ranch and game management people.

Too many elk. Has since been largely remedied, principally by natural forces, including increased predation by wolves and grizzlies.

71 -2005 -- a good trail through the timber, above the Red Deer River, leading down from the high country.

72 -2005 -- upper end of the YaHa Tinda Ranch. Wardens Rock in background.

Western access to top end of Scalp Creek takes off to the north (right) and the beginning of a long circular ride back to the Big Horn campground.

Better allow 10 - 12 hours.

Good Trail.

73 – 2005 – good- looking young bull still in the velvet.

74 - 2005 -- the tree-line, worldwide, is being recorded as creeping up higher and higher, due to global warming.

Here is a good example on a less severe site. The alpine spruce is advancing. I have noticed the change along this trail over the years.

Sadly, in fifty years, there will likely be far less tundra than exists today.

75 -2005 -- typical horse trail through the timber en route to the high country.

Watch your knees.

76 -2006 -- abandoned beaver dam near upper end of Whitehorse Creek above Cadomin. (See Stories - short.) No aspen left in the vicinity, but an abundance of small shrubs and grasses.

This stoutly constructed dam is holding several acres of water.

Ecologists note these abandoned but still sound dams are important to the local animal and bird populations. Not that common in mountain country.

77 -2006 -- a scene along “lower” trail beside Whitehorse Creek and near its upper end.

78 -2006 -- another scene along Whitehorse Creek above Cadomin.

This underground stream emerging from the cliff face was still an icy cascade in May.

79 -2006 – there are some interesting mountain formations, high and perpendicular, at the upper end of Whitehorse Creek ( See Stories – short). Well worth a visit.

Easy access from the campsite above Cadomin.

80 -2006—bottom of the canyon on Hidden Falls Creek (see Mtn Photo 42).

A popular visit, several miles west, from the Big Horn Creek campsite on the Red Deer River.